Got to Mount Cook Village nice and easy. There is only one T junction in 120Kms (we will take the other tomorrow). Not sure if we saw the top or any part of it, due to low cloud. But that turns out to be trivial, given the wonderful experiences we had on this visit.

On arrival looked in at the stunning visitors centre, spending an age in there. While it caters for tourists wanting to walk, or buy possum cashmere jumpers, it also purports to look after serious climbers. (But I expect they will be elsewhere). A bag of vegan dahl for two (simply fill packet with hot water) is good for a few hours trekking , only $22.

Nevertheless there is a museum of sorts, and this is the jewel in the crown. It is dedicated to Sir Edmund Hilary. The exhibits come mainly from the 1950s and later. Mountaineering gear has come a long way since then, with advancements in materials and technology making climbing safer, more comfortable, and more accessible. Looking at that old equipment makes the achievements done with it much more amazing.

Dangerous places up there. Some huts to find on your way up afford shelter for the night. You could have some pouches of food. But, as the museum attests, it is you V nature at its most unforgiving. In a quiet part of the museum, are the books of remembrance. One page per person, lost on the mountains here. First entry: George Napier, in his 20's died 29th December 1907.

Working through these pages I find a concentration of entries about 1950's, while the later entries are more about local guides and notables in the area who have passed away, under somewhat more usual circumstances.

Anyway, I take these sombre thoughts on board and also discover much written about what it is that drives mountaineers to such lengths and such dangers. I take these thoughts also on board as Liz joins me for an hours walk towards the glacier.

Now walking behind Liz, alone, with these thoughts, in this place, all so quiet, even without seeing the tops of these monsters, I can not believe my eyes. And it is Summer, to be here in Winter, alone, freezing, it is beyond me.

Alas, the moment is shattered as walkers come from the opposite direction, giggling about where they ate dinner last night. No right or wrongs here.

Laughter is a good thing, of course. But I did feel sorry for them, missing out on the Force Major of where they were.

As we got home, the sky had cleared and Liz took a great picture of the mist rolling down to Lake Tekapo in the distance. We played 'Unlock!' The 'Mysterium' game from the 'Game' box. Liz cooked (no pun) Bangers, Mash and Beans for us, we ate with the balcony windows open.

Note about the last picture, you can see six cards placed on top of a box of them (perhaps 1,000). Each card has holes punched around the edge, some of which have been clipped to join the edge. On each card is information about the plants and animals of the area written by hand, often edited.

Do you see how it worked, if I tell you there was a metal rod, longer than the box? Yes, slide the rod into one of the holes and lift it out. Some cards would stay in the box, others would be skewared by the rod. So an eary sort of sorting mechanism. Further sorting was possible by turning the cards over and either replacing them in the box or just further sorting on those in hand. Some sides seem to have been coloured. Perhaps you could rest everything using that. What a masterpiece.