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We arrive independently one day early, flying with TUI from Manchester to Enfidha Hammamet, for this VJV Tour.

It is very much off season, the hotel appears empty but at dinner there are quite a few diners. It is not swimming weather, I put my jumper on as the Sun sets.

We stroll to the beach where only a few fishermen have standing rods in the sea. There is a 180 degree horizon in the direction of Sicily, the Earth's curvature is stunning. But the beach cafes look as if destroyed by a storm. Walking outside around the hotel walls paints a picture of abandoned desolation and ruin.

This has occurred immediately after one of the several attacks on tourists. Large complexes such as this suddenly had no trade and the amenities and supporting community vanished overnight..

Tunis

Our group is set to arrive about 22:40 so we have the whole day to explore Tunis by ourselves before that. There is not so much to see as to absorb. Things are very different here. Pedestrians pose a big threat to drivers. We saw very few tourists. When we interacted with shop keepers and waiters there were not too many smiles. We were approached with offers of 'help' several times. Some were more serious than others. When we actually could have done with some assistance we could not find any.

The trams and buses look fun but they are packed full all the time and we think that it is too early to risk catching a cold so we stay clear. The taxies are fine.

Although our tour goes to the Souk tomorrow, we pop in anyway. Very neat and tidy, no mopeds or donkeys running through the alleys here. Not much mithering either.

Good fountain outside the old British Embassy set up by Charles II which is now a hotel. We return to ours which has now had an influx of guests and is quite busy.

Carthage

Carthage is a suburb of Tunis. We pass by the water storage tanks that captured the water in times of plenty and released it during Summer. The tanks are linked to the hills 80 KMs away by aqueduct.

The Carthage Roman Forum is on a high point. Looking out over the land and the bay, the extent of the ancient site is huge.

Now all with modern buildings all over it, but if you were to dig in any garden you would find ancient ruins and artefacts. Here at the Forum site there is only a little to see apart from getting a feel for the scale of the ancient city and a view of how there have been many over buildings.

And so we have several short coach hops to various parts of Carthage which have been selected for excavation. Much more has been identified but is being left unearthed for the future. We travel with our guide Abdallah, the driver Mugchef and ten others. All of us love Roman ruins and have seen very many. Yet all are excited about this trip and what is yet to come.

Here the area appears quite small but it was the second largest arena in the Empire. What remains is the underground complex and walls, the seating would have taken advantage of the bowl shaped contours of the landscape.

There is an amphitheatre which has been restored and now continues to be used for concerts and cultural events.

We travel on to the see the 'Blue City' named Sidi Bou Said (City Bus 8).

Then to a museum holding hundreds of Roman floor mosaics. These are remarkable as is the memorial to 39 people shot by a lone gunman which hangs in the lobby.

As the Sun sets, we walk through the souk of Tunis. It is Sunday so all the shops are closed this time but the experience makes a good change because the architecture, not covered by the sprawling display of wares each vendor brings forth every other day is visible. Quite a long day, with much of great interest along the way.

Tabarka

A short detour takes us to the allied 1945 war graves cemetery. The gardeners are at work when we arrive, we all spend time here. Each stone with a personal inscription from the family or loved one.

Tabarka is a pleasant fishing town, but the sharp drop of tourism and it being off season are very evident as it is almost a ghost town. It is overcast and just short of warm but our group are still having fun along the way.

The road divides across the river. We catch sight of the Algerian boarder all but 500m away with a long line of container lorries queuing to pass through.

One night at the Hotel El Mouradi Hammam Bourguiba a Spa and as the name suggests Hamman. Excitement is suppressed when we see the number of persons in the pool and the state of the Hamman.

Dougga

Bulla Regia is a wonderful Roman site with unusual basement areas which are very well preserved. By taking some time you can see that the houses were very large on the surface with a courtyard and rooms to the side. But within is a staircase leading down to the smaller underground complex. Here there is light from above through the ground floor.

The water management system here was remarkable, coming from natural springs it ran through all the houses. Some houses have unusual private bathrooms.

The Forum is the best we have seen with a wonderfully preserved and decorated arch.

Two nights at the 5-star Radisson Blu Hammamet.

Cap Bon

Rain and very strong winds with hail greeted us at the Carthaginian site of Kerkouane so we spend some time in the museum. Our knowledgeable group estimate the value of these gold coins in tens of thousands of pounds.

This site is unusual because most Carthaginian cities were obliterated by the Romans. We all get a feeling for the style being something we have never seen before. The mosaics are very different, abstract but with an even distribution of colours. No communal bathing here either. A central square area is of interest as well, so different from Roman designs.

In some way it is interesting to see this place in bad weather as the inhabitants must have faced it occasionally themselves. The design of their entrances and layout of the rooms may have been influenced by the Sea breezes that must have been quite common even during the Sunny times. Much has not been excavated, it looks like and is unremarkable scrub land, yet underneath many secrets for the future diggers to find.

A wild and windy day is perfect to visit Cap Bon, the Northerly tip of the peninsular between the gulfs Hammat and Tunis.

Thuboro Majus

Here the North wind has made the temperature drop dramatically. There is some rain fall. It is hard to concentrate on this wonderful site.

This is different. The roads are not all straight and the materials used are sandstone type stuff I think. Using my Roman City building strategy game theory this apears to have been something set up for the purpose of delivering some sort of material or requirement. There does not seem to be much comfort here for the inhabitants although the basics were of coures catered for.

Unfortunately it is impossible not to mention the scale of pollution here. We are taking the 'scenic' route to our destination and it is desperately polluted by fly tipping , mile after mile. The rubbish ranges from builders cast offs to glass bottles, household garbage to unwanted shells of cars with nothing left to strip out. But of course the problem is plastic. All things plastic remain caught by the native tough low grass that grabs bags and bottles. Fields as far as you can see are completely polluted. Expensive new housing blocks are built right next to places with hundreds of fly tipping occurrences. Dogs chew old litre bottles of Coke. Nothing organic remains.

Here is the cradle of the Arab Spring. We are feeling warmer now having travelled to the South for several hours.

Onk Jemal

Dar Cherait museum is a wonderful place. The museum has glass pieces like this all over the place. It is also used as a cultural centre for concerts.

Some of the museum is devoted to Hannibal.

Then we walk into the Medina of Tozer where we find this peaceful spot outside a big shop. While the carpet sale was on we spent quiet time here absorbing the occasional coming and goings through the various exits. A cat cuddled up to me.

A 4x4 dazzling trip in the desert started with a roller-coaster ride through the dunes. We stop at several of the Star Wars film sets. These building have to some extent been taken over by a small group of shopkeepers who seem to live there. However they do not spoil the set and many pilgrims come to see this site.

Douz

The HDMI cable pays its weight as I listen to music (Tool, Fear Inoculum) in hi def and view photos on the large screen.

We take a horse drawn carriage to the oasis of Tozer. Man this is like Piccadilly Circus.

Where we meet up with this dude who owns a few date trees in the complex. He has to pay for the artesian water that has been enhanced and delivered via a system of irrigation.

We cross the 110KM x 70KM salt lake Chott El Djerid to Douz...

...with a comfort stop at the half way point.

Overnight at the Tunisian 4-star Melia Mouradi Douz, the ancient centre of the nomadic desert culture. Here the inhabitants' names reflect and indicate their tribal background. Each nomadic tribe in the Southern desert would have an individual facial tattoo.

El Djem

We all are glad Denise wanted to see this troglodyte hotel where Starr Wars was filmed. Here we speak with some of the guests who are staying in the excavated caverns.

And then travel to Matmata to explore the Berber troglodyte houses for real. The lady who lives here is out but that is ok.

Now a real gem. Most others knew of this Arena and that it is the third largest in the Roman Empire, but it was news to me.

The Amphitheatre of El Jem bears outstanding witness to Roman architecture, notably monuments built for spectator events, in Africa. Located in a plain in the centre of Tunisia, this amphitheatre is built entirely of stone blocks, with no foundations and free-standing. In this respect it is modelled on the Coliseum of Rome without being an exact copy of the Flavian construction. Its size (big axis of 148 metres and small axis 122 metres) and its capacity (judged to be 35,000 spectators) make it without a doubt among the largest amphitheatres in the world. Its facade comprises three levels of arcades of Corinthian or composite style. Inside, the monument has conserved most of the supporting infrastructure for the tiered seating. The wall of the podium, the arena and the underground passages are practically intact. This architectural and artistic creation built around 238 AD, constitutes an important milestone in the comprehension of the history of Roman Africa. The Amphitheatre of El Jem also bears witness to the prosperity of the small city of Thysdrus (current El Jem) at the time of the Roman Empire. Reference UNESCO.

Stunning and with the underground rooms and lifts intact as well.

After visiting the El Jem museum which holds many mosaics and some simple ruins of domestic housing, we get to Sousse which is a relaxed westernised city (almost).

Great to see a kettle in the room at last, shame it does not work. But otherwise a fantastic hotel for us to stay on at. The Food is very good, so we plan to eat here as much as we can rather than chance any restaurants, no matter how swanky they look.

Across the street 'Sinbads' is playing loud music all night, I can just hear it through the balcony windows. But the room is extremely hot, the air conditioning does not work in February and is blasting out sauna style heat. Opening the window occasionally is the only option. Turning the heating off does not make much difference.

Kairouan

At last there is Sunshine plus no North wind! It is T shirt time. It is now 6:30 and Sinbads is closing, I am prepared for our last day with our guide Abdallah Kalifa [contact him if you like: abdallah.khalifa@yahoo.fr] and Driver Munchef. Both have been excellent and our arrivals at meals and hotels seamless and fast.

The 'Holy City' of Kairouan was built from nothing at a strategic location in the heart of Tunisia. The Great Mosque of Sidi Oqba [Islam's fourth holiest site after Mecca, Medina, and Jerusalem] brings out some attractive head ware from our companions.

There is a Sundial in the courtyard of an unusual design. Presumably this is calibrated to provide times for the standard calls to prayer. This was taken at 11:33 on 10th Feb 2020

We returned to Sousse and listened to a lecture for almost two hours. The subject was The History of Tunisia from pre-Phoenicians to today. The three Punic Wars were brought to life by the excellent professor. Also of interest was the recent history from 1956 to present day, including the 'Arab Spring'. There is a hint of East/West divide with infrastructure and investment on the coast being favoured . We reflect on the UK North/South divide.

Sousse

After over 2,000 KMs we say goodbye. We are now by ourselves. So a very long walk to the metro station to research the timetables for Monistair, then through the Medina to the high point of Sousse for the museum. We have seen many mosaics now, but ...

And a view over the port. Followed by walking to the main square for a wonderful lunch and then the long walk home.

A very nice and honourable citizen watches over us.

This is a beautiful hotel. Such a large pool with so many features. Also a sea water pool and a way out from the spa complex heated pool into the warm waters outside.

Sousse

The 10:30 from Sousse to Monastire left on time. Seven stops and half an hour it arrives spot on time. Return fare 50p. It is quite full. We pass by salt production lakes, university, an airport and many hotels which must be all inclusive as they are miles from anywhere.

Long walk in Monistaire which has a very pleasant souk. In the department store the music track changes to a rap and gradually the explicit words become clear. I have never heard such a vulgar song. The assistants do not bat an eye. Perhaps they do not understand it? I doubt that a bit. On and on it goes. The City lively and quite spectacular.

We walked through the marina full of large yachts. Then return by train.

For a second lunch at Crystal's Restaurant.

Then stroll back to the Hotel along the beach front.

Pleasant dinner and good nights sleep.

Sousse

Revisit the souk from the top down via a taxi ride where the driver had a seven minute animated arguement on the phone with his girl friend. His son was in the back and was dropped off at school on the way past.

This is photograph number 2000 with the camera.

We visit a cart boot sale.

Airport Day

We have most of today here in Sousse before short transfer for flight arriving 23:55 GMT.

Home

A storm has been raging in the UK for the last few days with flooding in many new places. Another is on the way for Saturday.

Bonus Photos

Our taxi driver into Tunis wanted to wait for us. "You will never find a taxi to take you back" he told us. We took our chances.

Looking out from our hotel over to the trees of Algeria.

The question: Why so many dudes sitting in the cafe all day? The answer: 1. Unemployment. 2. They are tradesmen waiting to be hired. 3. They have jobs but before lunch and after lunch they like a break and a coffee.

In the middle of nowhere.

Saying thank you to our guide Abdallah Kalifa in Sousse.

Bonus Story

We arrived here on Brexit day. The hotel has many international TV stations so it was interesting to watch the build up on several channels. Indeed on day two the discussions continue on TV.

In the restaurant we see an ever changing line of ladies recovering from cosmetic surgery. Investigations show Tunis is one of the best places for it. All inclusive holidays and recouperation is at a reasonable price.

The other news is the Corona Virus in China. We got scanned on the way in. There are many Chinese tourists staying here. Three of our fellow travellers live in Hong Kong and are wondering if they should go back at the end of the tour or try to stay with relations in UK for a while.

By Friday Brexit is off the radar as far as the channels we receive, but the virus seems to be taking a stronger grip everywhere.

Overall so far things have been great. The Roman stuff is remarkable and the associated museums have been a wonderful surprise, each and every one far better than on any tour before. Perhaps also aided by the excitement and interest of our companions.